If you are considering building your own coop or converting one from an existing structure, you may be thinking about what exactly is involved. Chickens don’t need a lot – in fact are pretty happy with some minimum requirements. However, there are six things every backyard chicken coop should have.
Just like us, chickens need to eat, sleep, get some exercise, breathe fresh air, and have a safe environment. Oh, and lay eggs of course! These basic requirements drive the list of the six things every chicken coop should have.
1. Nest Boxes
Hens lay eggs. We are all so glad that they do. And likely, it is one of the top reasons you are even considering getting hens. They like to lay their eggs in a private setting, where they can feel safe from all of the predators who would steal their eggs. Also, your hens should lay their eggs in the same spot every day. Then you know where to find them.
This is why making sure they have nesting boxes available is so critical. Otherwise they could lay their eggs on the ground inside the coop, where they are easily stepped on. If you are considering free-range hens, they could lay their eggs out in your free-range area. Good luck finding those eggs. But more likely that you’d attract rats, snakes or birds of prey who would very easily find them.
I’ve heard many stories of new chicken owners wondering why their hens aren’t laying eggs. Only later they discover a nest of eggs hidden in an obscured corner of the coop or run. Or worse, hidden away under the dense branches of a garden shrub.
Nesting boxes can be purchased in singles, duples, or more. The general rule of thumb is that you need one box for every 3-4 hens. If you prefer to make your own, this can save on costs when using material you may already have. Boxes can be made of wood or metal, and should have enough room for one hen. You don’t want the boxes to be too big otherwise your chickens won’t feel secure using it.
You’ll put some sort of bedding material inside the box, therefore a lip is a good addition to the box. And many people also like to add a slanted roof to keep the chickens from perching, roosting and pooping on the tops of the boxes.
If you aren’t comfortable making or buying boxes, there are a number of found items you can use. An old pet carrier, milk crates, 5 gallon hardware store buckets (on their side), large pots and small dresser drawers all make perfectly good boxes for laying hens. Just put them on their side with some bedding. Elevate the boxes a few feet off the ground so that a laying hen isn’t disturbed. This will also keep debris out of the box.
2. Feeders & Waterers
Of course, like all living beings, chickens need food and water. This is so clearly obvious, I almost didn’t include it. However there are a few tips and tricks I can share which will make life easier.
Chickens will eat out of almost anything you put in front of them. It is difficult for chickens to see down at their feet. Their eyes are on opposite sides of their head, so looking down is definitely not one of their strengths! Small bowls that sit on the ground are inevitably going to get walked on, tipped over, and soiled. This wastes a lot of feed. Plus you have to fill them at least daily.
In order to save ourselves from needing to refill food on a daily basis, chicken keepers use bulk hanging feeders. These are inexpensive and save you a ton of effort. Instead of having to feed your girls every day, these feeders mean, depending upon the size of your flock, that you’ll only need to refill the feeder weekly, if that. Plus, they keep the feed off the floor, meaning it stays dry, clean, and away from rodents.
By the same token, hanging waterers save you even more time and energy. Fresh water is critical for your chickens. Investing in either a hanging waterer or a 5 gallon bucket with inexpensive nipples is important to keep your chickens healthy.
3. Roosts
The roost is where chickens will sleep at night. There are both social and safety considerations to know about when setting up roosts for your new flock.
In the wild, chickens would find a tree and use the branches like a ladder. They will climb high enough to be safe from predators, but not too high that they can’t easily get down. Hens at the top of the pecking order will claim the highest roosts. To replicate this in the coop, you want to put 3 or 4 graduated roosts they can use to go up to the top roost.
The roosts can be made out of natural tree limbs, fence posts, or even two by fours. Just make sure that the diameter is big enough for the chickens to grip with their feet. Some people will use the flat side of a 2×4.
The top roost should be about one foot away from the wall to account for the chicken’s body. And each lower roost should be about a foot away from each other. The lowest roost is best about three feet off the ground. Most chickens can easily fly up to it from the ground. It is also good to provide a ramp from the lowest roost down to the ground.
4. Ventilation
Hens need ventilation both day and night, all year long. While ventilation in the summer is critical to keep them from overheating, wintertime airflow is necessary too. Hens emit water and heat, both of which need somewhere to go. Too much moisture inside the coop is not only unhealthy, but will attract flies and mites. There is also ammonia in their poop, and dust particles. Without proper ventilation a hen’s sensitive respiratory system could become compromised.
Ideally, ventilation should be located both high in the coop and at ground level. If your coop has working windows, make sure they have tight fitting screens in them. If not, you can remove a few boards up at the top of the coop, near the eaves. This will allow summertime heat to escape. Make sure to cover the gap with hardware cloth.
5. Chicken Run
Just like humans, chickens stay healthiest when they can get fresh air and sunshine. But due to space limitations and overhead predators like hawks, not all keepers can allow their hens to free range. Adding a chicken run to the coop is the next best thing. It is also a great backup on rainy or snowy days.
Most commercially purchased chicken coops include a chicken run. These are often located underneath the hen house or off to the side. If you are building your own, you should allot about 8-10 square feet per chicken in the run. This is usually more than a pre-fab coop, but this amount will go a long way tp preserve the peace. It gives them enough room to turn around without getting into each other’s hackles.
The chicken run should be accessible from the coop, but able to be closed off as well. The chickens should be able to go in and out of the coop at will during the day. And it allows you to lock them up safe from predators at night.
Inside the chicken run you can include toys, a water station, a dust bathing station, and some cover. Cover is especially important if the run doesn’t have a roof, but is a good idea even if you do.
6. Security
This item should actually be number one. Ensuring your chickens are safe from predators both large and small, from the ground or the air, is probably the number one job of any chicken keeper. There are so many potential access points, that this topic merits its own article.
But start out by closing off all holes, gaps, and access points. Use hardware cloth to screen any large openings. Use gap filler for smaller openings. Regularly check both high spots and low spots (eaves, soffits and baseboards) for new holes or gaps and fill them immediately.
Create a perimeter. Be vigilant. I can’t think of anything sadder than finding a missing or mauled chicken during your morning routine.
So these are the six things every chicken coop should have. Let me know your thoughts in the comments below – anything you think I should include?
