Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops to grow. Many people start their tomatoes from nursery starts, which is a great way to go, especially if you are new to growing tomatoes, or if you aren’t home often to look after seeds. But once you’ve caught the bug from growing a successful tomato crop, starting your plants from seeds is the logical next step.
You can buy good quality seeds or you can choose to save seeds from your own tomatoes. In either case, you will want to ensure your seeds get off to a good start.
There are several methods for sowing seeds, including different types of starter pots, seed cells, soil mixes, etc. I usually use two methods when starting my tomatoes, to ensure success and prevent against any catastrophic failure within one medium or the other.
For example, in addition to starting my seeds in the traditional seed cells, sometimes i’ll start several seeds of each variety using the paper towel method. So if something happens, such as too wet, or too hot, or small paws knock over the seed cells, I still have the other medium to fall back on.
When to plant
Most of us who live in the United States, Canada or Europe are going to want to start tomato seeds indoors. Tomatoes aren’t like pumpkins, and they do best in consistent conditions – moisture and warmth – in the first few weeks of their little lives.
Check your seed packet, but it is usually best to start your seeds 6 – 9 weeks prior to your region’s last frost date. For most of us, that means sometime between January and March. If you’re not sure exactly when that is for you, just type your address or zip code into the Plant Hardiness Map. I have found that the map is incredibly accurate – there is a consistent fog line two doors down from our farm and the map switches the zone even to accommodate this minor elevation change.
Supplies for starting tomatoes from seed
- Seeds
- Organic seed starting mix
- Worm castings
- Seed cells or peat pots
- Water catchment tray
- Dome or plastic wrap to maintain humidity
- Grow light
- Heat mat
Starting tomatoes from seeds
- Mix a good quality seed starting mix with some worm castings and remove any sticks or chunks. Stir in some water to get the soil to an even consistency. You don’t want the soil to be soggy, but just damp. Fill each of your seed cells or peat pots to the top. Gently tap the seed tray on the table or counter to remove any air pockets at the bottom of the seed cells. Top off the pot if necessary.
- Using a toothpick or barbecue skewer, poke 2 holes into the center of each pot.
- Place one seed in each hole and cover gently. Make sure soil covers all sides of the seed.
- Make sure to label each pot! it can be very easy to forget, especially if the cells get turned around.
- If you fill the reservoir rather than watering the top of the soil, you will see several benefits. Your roots will grow stronger, and the top of the soil will be far less likely to rot the baby stem or attract fungus gnats.
- Cover your seeds with a dome or plastic wrap. This will retain moisture and hasten germination. You’ll want to open up the dome once a day to allow airflow.
- Place on a heat mat specifically designed for seedlings. This will ensure a fast and higher rate of germination
- At the first signs of sprouts, remove the plastic dome right away. This will likely happen between 5-10 days. If not, there is likely not enough heat or moisture. Remove the dome even if there are only a few sprouts; the others will follow as long as there is enough warmth and moisture.
- Give the seedlings very high light right as the seedlings emerge. Place the light directly above the seedlings. Try not to use high heat lamps which could burn the sprout or dry out the soil too quickly. If the seedlings are long and leggy, the light is too far away. Try to keep the light on for about 12 hours per day.
- With the addition of the light, make sure that your seedlings do not dry out. add water to the reservoir under the seeds so that it can wick up through the soil. Try to keep the upper part of the soil dryer.
- Add a small, oscillating fan if you can. This will not only provide airflow, but will also encourage stronger roots.
- Use a fine mist sprayer to ensure your babies don’t dry out, since you’ll be watering them somewhat sparingly.
- Once the secondary leaves emerge you’re out of the danger zone. This will be between 14 -20 days.
Paper towel method
If you haven’t had success sprouting tomatoes, or you find you have a hard time keeping the moisture in your seed pots at a consistent level, never fear. One of the easiest ways I’ve found to sprout tomatoes is by using the paper towel method. This method is a sometimes easier to get to sprout because of the controlled environment.
Just be aware that the baby seedling, once sprouted, may need a little more handling than the seed pot method. So this might be best for those with careful, gentle hands and good eyesight.
